Nigeria (Lagos)

Nigeria is 223 million people and the largest economy in Africa. Lagos is the creative capital of West Africa — music, fashion, film, art, entrepreneurship. Yet the internet treats it as uniformly dangerous, which is incorrect. Yes, you need to take precautions (stay in safe neighborhoods, use trusted transportation, don't flash valuables). But thousands of expats live there happily. Tourists visit. Life happens.

The music scene is global — Afrobeats originated here. The food is incredible — jollof rice (spiced rice with tomatoes), pepper soups that will expand your understanding of spice, suya (grilled spiced meat), plantains fried every which way, fresh tropical fruits. A meal costs $2–4. A beer costs $1. Transportation via Uber is cheap and reliable.

Lagos neighborhoods are distinct. Lekki is the touristy, upscale area with restaurants and bars. Ikoyi is similar. Bariga and Surulere are where locals live, less touristy, more authentic. The National Museum, art galleries, and rooftop bars are clustered in Lekki but worth it. A week here rewrites your assumptions about Lagos and Nigeria.

Lekki food crawl: Start in the evening at a street food stall for jollof rice and pepper soup, then move to a restaurant or bar for drinks. $5–15 total. Ask locals for recommendations.

National Museum: Artifacts from Nigeria's diverse ethnic groups, pre-colonial history, contemporary art. $10 entry. Allow 1–2 hours.

Victoria Island and Lekki beach: Walk the waterfront, stop at beach bars, watch the sunset. Relaxing, safe in daylight hours, good for swimming. $0 to walk around, $5–15 for drinks/food.

Rooftop bar hopping in Lekki: Terraces with city views, good music, lively crowds. Start early evening. Drinks $2–4 each.

Budget:: Spacestation Lekki — hostel in Lekki, rooftop bar, central to restaurants. Dorms $12–18, privates $35–55.

Mid-Range:: Protea Hotel Ikeja (Victoria Island) — business hotel with good rooms and restaurant. $90–130/night.

Splurge:: The Landmark Lagos — luxury high-rise with pools, restaurants, views. $220–320/night.

Jollof rice: Spiced tomato rice, often served with grilled chicken and coleslaw. The West African staple. $2–4.

Pepper soup: A broth-based soup with assorted meats (goat, beef, chicken) and peppers that create numbing, tingling heat. $3–5.

Suya: Grilled meat (beef, goat, or chicken) coated with spiced peanut powder. Street food, sold by the stick or portion. $1–2.

Fried plantains (dodo): Ripe plantains fried until caramelized. Served as a side or snack with spicy sauce. $1–1.50.

Akara: Fried black-eyed pea fritters, served with spicy sauce. Breakfast or snack. $0.50–1.