Saudi Arabia opened to tourists in 2019. Before that, the country was essentially closed — tourism visas didn't exist. F…
Saudi Arabia opened to tourists in 2019. Before that, the country was essentially closed — tourism visas didn't exist. Five years later, it's still one of the least touristy countries on Earth, which means you can visit without feeling like you're on a tourist conveyor belt.
AlUla is a desert valley with 2,000-year-old Nabataean ruins (predating Petra) that are now UNESCO sites. Jagged red sandstone mountains, ancient carved facades, and tomb entrances cut into cliff faces. You walk through ancient trading routes in relative solitude. A day of exploring costs $20–30 in guides and transport.
Jeddah is a seaside city with the Red Sea coastline, historic old town (Balad) with wooden buildings and narrow souks, and restaurants serving Persian, Yemeni, Egyptian, and Saudi food. The food scene is genuinely good and prices are reasonable ($5–10 for excellent meals). Women's freedom has expanded (they can drive, attend sporting events, visit unmarried men without a mahram). The country is changing faster than its international reputation suggests.
Food is excellent and cheap. Shawarma (spiced meat on a spit) costs $2–3. Kabsa (spiced rice with meat) is $4–6. Fresh seafood in Jeddah is $6–12. The desert landscape is unlike anywhere else on Earth.
AlUla archaeological site: Ancient Nabataean ruins including Madain Salih (carved facades similar to Petra). Hire a guide, rent a car, and spend 1–2 days exploring. $30–50 for a full-day guide.
Jeddah old town (Balad) walking tour: Narrow wooden buildings, street food stalls, authentic souks. Walk and eat your way through for $5–10 total.
Red Sea diving or snorkeling: Jeddah offers excellent coral diving and snorkeling. Day trips, $40–80 depending on boat and experience level.
Abraj Al-Bait (Clock Towers) in Mecca: If you're Muslim, the Grand Mosque. If not, the adjacent shopping complex and clock towers (tallest in the world) are impressive. $0 (walk around) to $15 (shopping).
Budget:: Marwa Hostel (Jeddah) — budget option in old town, basic but clean. Dorms $12–18, privates $40–55.
Mid-Range:: Rosewood Jeddah — modern luxury with Red Sea views. $120–160/night.
Splurge:: Banyan Tree Al Wadi — luxury resort in AlUla with pools and restaurants. $250–380/night.
Kabsa: Spiced rice with meat (chicken, lamb, or beef), typically topped with fried onions and nuts. Fragrant, warming, the Saudi national dish. $4–7.
Shawarma: Spiced meat (chicken or lamb) on a spit, shaved into pita with tahini and vegetables. Street food, ubiquitous, cheap. $2–3.
Falafel: Deep-fried chickpea balls, eaten in pita with tahini and vegetables. Vegetarian option. $1–2.
Mansaf: Lamb cooked in a yogurt-based sauce, served with rice and bread. Traditional, slightly sour, rich. $6–9.
Fresh seafood (Jeddah): Grilled fish, shrimp, or hamour (grouper) from the Red Sea, served with rice and salad. $8–15.
Getting there
Flights to Riyadh or Jeddah International Airport from Middle Eastern hubs or Europe
Daily budget
$50–90 (accommodation $30–50, food $10–18, activities $10–25)
Best time
October–April (warm days, cool nights; avoid May–September extreme heat)
AlUla requires a guide for most archaeological sites (this is Saudi law and also provides local employment). Book guides through your accommodation or the official AlUla tourism office. Car rental is necessary for exploring multiple sites — arrange through hotels or international rental companies.
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