Torres del Paine W Trek — Chile

There's a moment on day two of the W Trek when you round a bend on the trail and the three granite towers of Torres del Paine appear in front of you — grey-blue spires rising vertically out of a turquoise glacial lake, framed by ice and wind-bent lenga trees. Every photo you've seen of this place undersells it.

The W Trek is five days and four nights of Patagonian immersion. You'll walk roughly 80km through terrain that shifts from ancient forests to glacial valleys to exposed ridgelines where the wind can literally push you sideways. The trail is well-marked but not easy — Patagonia's weather is famously unpredictable, and you'll experience all four seasons in a single afternoon.

What makes the W special isn't just the scenery (though the scenery is absurd). It's the structure. You move from refugio to refugio — mountain huts that serve hot meals and have beds — which means you can do this trek without carrying a tent or stove. You eat dinner with other hikers from twelve countries, fall asleep to wind rattling the roof, and wake up to landscapes that belong in a geology textbook.

Base Torres Sunrise (Day 1 or 5): The 4 AM alarm hurts, but watching the sun hit the three towers and turn them orange-pink is the single most photographed moment in Patagonia. 1.5-hour climb from Refugio Chileno.

Grey Glacier Viewpoint (Day 3): Walk along the shore of Lago Grey as icebergs the size of cars drift past. The glacier itself stretches back toward the Southern Patagonian Ice Field — the third largest ice mass on earth.

French Valley (Day 2–3): A detour into a hanging valley surrounded by granite walls on three sides. If the sky is clear, this is where the W Trek peaks.

Budget:: Camping at designated sites — $10–15/night (bring your own tent or rent on-site for ~$30).

Mid-Range:: Refugio full-board (bed, dinner, breakfast, packed lunch) — $70–100/night. Book 3–6 months ahead for peak season.

Splurge:: EcoCamp Patagonia — geodesic dome glamping inside the park. $300–500/night all-inclusive with guided excursions.

Refugio dinners: Three-course meals in the middle of nowhere — typically a soup starter, protein with vegetables, and a simple dessert. Wine is available. The quality genuinely surprises.

Calafate berry pie: Made from the Patagonian calafate berry (legend says if you eat one, you'll return to Patagonia). Available at bakeries in Puerto Natales.

Patagonian lamb: Slow-roasted whole over an open flame (asado al palo). The restaurants in Puerto Natales do this well — try La Mesita Grande.