Ulaanbaatar & the Mongolian Steppe

Ulaanbaatar is Mongolia's capital (1.5 million people in a country of 3.3 million). It's Soviet in architecture, Mongolian in energy, and genuinely chaotic. The city itself is less of a destination and more of a jumping-off point for steppe experiences.

The steppe is the real draw. Nomadic herding still happens. You can stay in gers (traditional yurts) with herding families, learn about pastoral life, and experience a landscape that's genuinely vast and empty. Eagle hunting (in western Mongolia, winter) is extraordinary.

Mongolia is marginal to global tourism infrastructure. Flights are limited. Roads are rough. Communication is spotty. But that marginality is the appeal — you're seeing a landscape and culture that's been deliberately less tourism-developed than neighboring regions.

Nomadic family homestay (3–5 days): Stay with a herding family, learn about pastoral life. Sleep in a ger. Join daily activities. Tour operators arrange. $40–80/day all-inclusive.

Eagle hunting (December–February): Western Mongolia, Kazakh hunters with golden eagles. Multi-day tours. $100–200/day (expensive but extraordinary). Limited availability.

Gobi Desert drive: Drive through desert landscape, camel rides, dinosaur fossil sites. Tours $60–100/day.

Naadam Festival (July): Wrestling, horse racing, archery competition. Annual festival. Hotel rooms book out; plan far in advance.

Budget:: Hostels in Ulaanbaatar. $15–25/night.

Mid-Range:: Hotels in Ulaanbaatar. $40–70/night.

Splurge:: Ger camps or upscale hotels. $80–150/night.

Mutton: The main protein. Boiled, steamed, or grilled. $5–10.

Dairy products: Yogurt, cheese, dried curds. Staples. $1–3.

Buuz: Steamed dumplings filled with meat. $1–2.

Noodle soups: Warm and filling. $2–4.

Airag: Fermented mare's milk. Acquired taste. $2–5 per cup.