This article is part of: Tbilisi, Georgia in EAT THE PLANE TICKET
Khinkali are soup dumplings. You don't cut them — you pick them up by the twisted top (the "kudi"), bite a small hole, suck out the broth, then eat the rest. The top knot gets left on the plate. That's the rule.
Where to eat: Pasanauri (Rustaveli) does the classic version — beef and pork, $4–6 for 10. Samikitno has multiple locations and reliable quality. For something different, try kalakuri (mushroom) or konka (lamb with cumin) at a family-run spot in the old town.
How many: Five is a snack. Ten is a meal. Fifteen and you'll need a nap.
What to drink: Tbilisi tap water is fine. Or try a local beer — Natakhtari or Zedazeni. Wine comes after, at a proper supra.
The one mistake: Poking them with a fork. The broth spills, the dough tears, and everyone at the table will know you're new. Use your hands.
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